17 May 2014 – 17.5km from Bard to Montestrutto
Last night I dined like a queen in Bard after having had an atrocious meal the night before when I had to walk to the next village because the restaurant in the hotel was closed, as was the one over the road, for weekly closing day. For those who are interested I had a menu in my 4 star hotel of the local specialties: mini home-made dumplings in a delicious butter & chive sauce with a fine slice of the local lard (a specialty of the region) wrapped around them and lots of grated dried goat’s cheese on top – sounds heavy but was very light; this was followed by veal cheek braised in red wine with mashed potato which melted in the mouth (& a green salad as I can’t live without one) and then had a local muffin, fresh out of the oven with a cold lemon sauce, all accompanied by a couple of glasses of red wine… I went to bed a happy little pilgrim who even forgot her feet for a while. Of course I had to do the 4 star hotel proud so pulled my other pair of walking pants, still clean, out of one of my wonderful Exped bags (Merci Marie-Jose) and wore my one decent polo walking shirt (thanks for encouraging me buy this, Helen) along with my Crocs thongs…
I have now changed my Hedrena long-sleeved top (thanks so much Liz O) for the Icebreaker short sleeved one (also fine wool) & it was perfect with my trusty little down vest. Soon I won’t need wool at all and will have to start applying sun-cream as it is much warmer when in the sun even if there is still wind. Big wash coming on my day off!
The sky was gorgeous last night, all rose-colored at 9pm before it got dark and I went to bed a happy little walker. And then the breakfast! Muesli, wonderful heavy wholemeal bread (please tell Terry, Caroline), beautiful farm natural yoghourt, fruit, fresh juices, a selection of the local hams, goat and cow milk cheeses, etc, etc – I was in Heaven (& all this included in the price of the room which reminds me of the adage that “expensive is not expensive” for what one gets…)
So this morning I set off (late!) up through the medieval village on a beautiful morning & again splendid scenery. I was now leaving the Aosta valley and entering the province of Piedmonte (meaning the foot of the mountains) & the valley opened out and the mountains were less enclosing. Have still seen some ruins of castles & forts on elevated terrain but fewer than before where there were many all the way down from the Great Saint- Bernard Pass. Much agriculture (rather than light industry) on the flatter terrain. All along the way farmers were out cutting and harvesting hay in the traditional way with wide rakes to form it into lines and turn it over to dry, perhaps profiting from the glorious weather. At the end of the day I saw many tractors hauling huge round bales of it towards their barns. As I walked through a small town today a sign said it was 25C but it felt less because of the wind (which has been responsible I think for the beautiful weather). Once I head a little further south & out of this area I’ll have to start off earlier in the mornings to avoid the worst of the heat… Everywhere along the way there have been water fountains one can drink from, which is great, but I think this will change from now on so will have to make sure I have enough with me.
Today I have walked along the main tarmac road, Roman roads, dirt tracks & dirt roads, through vineyards, along tracks of grass & also rocks, down rocky steps, etc but I can assure you that for unhappy feet the bitumen roads are not the worst thing! Am so pleased to have my telescopic walking sticks (thank you, Catherine).
As I entered Pont Saint-Martin I saw a health food shop & deli so in I went & bought a selection (in 7 little plastic containers as the fellow weighed everything separately…) of delicious anti-pasti things which our Zoe would love & the fellow put them all in a plastic bag which he attached to my rucksack. Will try & attach a photo. So along I walked to the famous bridge & through the town to the next village when I heard a noise & looked back and three of my little containers were behind me on the footpath as they had cut through the plastic bag what with it swinging from my knapsack…so my delicious lunch nearly didn’t happen…but I eventually ate it in a vineyard under the grape vines which were above me on elevated wires as they seem to grow them like that here (perhaps makes them easier to harvest?). Many vineyards everywhere and I walked alongside many of them often on the man-made terraces on the hillsides.
“Feet first
Feet fine
Philosophy follow”
These are not the words of Confucius but of my wise versifying friend (she only needs to add a few syllables to have a haiku!) & also reflect what several of you have said.
Today I walked 17.5km from Bard to Montestrutto, a little more than I (& my feet) would have liked but I could not get accommodation in the village I’d chosen (it’s Saturday night) so I came on to here to a B&B where I have an apartment! When I asked about washing some clothes the owner went up a few steps from my living room into the laundry (the pilgrim’s needs are few but one is washing one’s few clothes!) & from there up a few steps out onto a covered terrace with drying lines plus comfortable easy chairs. I straight away decided to take the Lord’s Day off & stay for two nights, so perhaps I’m finally acquiring a hint of wisdom… Just thought of Tony Kevin (who wrote “Walking the Camino”) who had blisters from Malaga to Salamanca, walking by the southern route to Compostela…hope this will not be my fate…
What I have seen / learnt today:
1. Dogs also bark from behind closed doors in medieval villages as well as from parked cars
2. The whole valley seems to support the Juventus football team as many houses have the team’s flag hanging from their balconies
3. Not to panic too quickly – when I left the 4 star hotel the manager took a photo of me on my iPad & then put it in the zippered pocket which I’d left open in my rucksack, but when I went to take it out in Pont Saint-Martin to take a photo of the Roman bridge the pocket was open but no iPad…I panicked but them looked again & he’d put it in another pocket at the top of the pack which I didn’t even know existed…
4. One has to look on the road, above one and behind one as well as in front to see the way-markings of the via Francigena route! As the route is very old but had been virtually been forgotten until several years ago when an association was formed and started doing the way-markings again, there are variations on where one can walk. I must admit I have not always chosen the “higher” options as these have been marked out by hiking associations (& the original pilgrims wouldn’t have walked on them) and add distance (& perhaps also some better views) to the route, but might prove more challenging especially with a heavy rucksack. My wonderful guide book gives the various options which is great. By the way, the route was first documented by the Archbishop of Canterbury, Sigeric, in 990 when he returned to Canterbury from Rome but has existed since AD313 when the Roman Empire became Christian (with the Edict of Milan) & pilgrims started going to Rome to visit the tombs of Saints Peter & Paul (but they were aided by the well-maintained infrastructure of Roman roads…). Another interesting piece of information is that in the year 1300 which the pope declared to be a Holy Year, 2,000,000 pilgrims went to Rome (& 20,000 stayed overnight in the hospice at the Grand Saint-Bernard Pass) as they could get a complete remission of their sins if they confessed on 15 successive days in the basilicas of both St Peter’s and St Paul’s (this was usually only possible if one did a crusade). This also proved to be a great financial success as the Vatican made the equivalent of 7,000,000 pounds sterling in today’s money! My culture (historical at least) is slowly being increased a little!
5. Italians are great cyclists as I’ve seen so many in all places – am not sure whether the fact that the Giro d’Italia is taking place now (my nephew Michael is riding in it!) has an effect on them or if it’s just the good weather getting them out, but they are everywhere. Also bikies (moto) have been out in the good weather today in packs.
6. The marriage season is starting as I saw several wedding processions & celebrations & even came across a couple being photographed in a vineyard and when they came out again (she with bare feet crossing the road) I asked if they were already married but the wedding hadn’t yet taken place…
I have been writing this in a pizzeria/trattoria in this tiny village which the B&B recommended as being very good. It is amazing as it is large (dining room can seat at least 70 people) and has been packed with people coming & going since 7.45pm when I arrived until now, 10.30pm, so I must go home to bed & will try to attach a couple of photos & send tomorrow.
This is a (too?) long account of my day but rest day tomorrow so hopefully (for my tootsies anyhow) it won’t be too eventful. To give you a laugh as it did me, I’m sure my friend won’t mind my sharing with you what she said today:
“Sounds lovely though and I agree that the valley can seem very ‘dark’ although I’ve always thought very interesting with the forts strategically located along the way etc. Makes me laugh thinking what you would do if you were the poor sod stuck up there on lookout and you actually saw an army approaching…. No mobile phone network!!! Guess you’d have to run for it. My, how the world has changed!”
Much love to all & I love receiving your emails (when I can access wifi)
Attached (I hope as am a neophyte at this and any advice how to do this better on the iPad would be appreciated) some photos of first couple of days, including my 4 star & delicious anti-pasti lunch, as well as the typical funeral notice (which are everywhere) where the 90 year old had the right to a beautiful road to Paradise & the 62 year old is bare chested, but then I suppose we came into the world naked..
