23rd May 2015 Lucca – day of rest!
Cool overcast day with some rain
Stop press! Info from a friend who lived many years in Italy and is an Italian citizen…
“I just wanted to give you a thought about the rights of pedestrians versus motorists. I think the Road Code in Italy may say something along the lines of “pedestrians have to ascertain that the carriageway is clear and cars have sufficient distance to stop, before stepping off the kerb”…… That is, the onus is on the pedestrian, not the driver. After all, it is the land of Alpha Romeo, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Lancia, Fiat, etc…..please look out very carefully!”
Shorter version: lovely lazy day in Lucca as I have a good week of walking ahead of me as I head for Siena.. Highlight was a visit to the cathedral of San Martino. All goes well.
Longer version:
Profited from not having to pack up and hoist my rucksack onto my shoulders. Had a late (good) breakfast and then sauntered out to visit the city. First stop was the cafe on the Piazza Giglio for a cappuccino to collect my thoughts. Then I headed to the cathedral which is really beautiful with its marble facade and the adjoining stone bell-tower.
An original church of the 6th century, it was renovated in the 8th when it became the cathedral of the town, being substantially enlarged in the 11th century to take on a new basilica plan with 5 naves. It’s current aspect derives from subsequent renovations especially during the 14th and 15th centuries. The facade is in the Roman-Pisan style but is asymmetric because of the existing bell-tower. The upper part has 3 layers of slender pillars and arches. I finally got to see a labyrinth, the symbol of pilgrimage, on the facade so I could ponder a pilgrim’s difficulties.
This was the first church I’d seen which charged for entry (in 2009 it wasn’t charging) but just as Mirko had promised I showed my pilgrim attestation and was let in free.
It has an impressive interior with in-laid marble floors, much light coming in and very agreeable proportions. The star sight for me was the magnificent carved funeral monument (sarcophagus) to Ilaria del Carretto, the beautiful wife of one of the local noble Guinigi family members and who died at 24, which is a masterpiece of Gothic and Renaissance forms. I met a couple of locals outside who asked me if I’d seen “Ilaria”!
However I was privileged to hear 4 singers rehearsing for a mass. It was beautiful and I sat entranced for 10-15 minutes as they sang various pieces “a Cappella”. Tried to record them but not sure of the quality…
I visited other churches and strolled around the town, now in the rain, and if one kept off the main thoroughfares it was very pleasant strolling around in the little back streets where I saw the locals doing their shopping in little butcher shops, bakeries, etc.
Of course I passed in front of the magnificent Romanesque church of San Michele in Foro but it was closed as was San Frediano with its enormous mosaic on the facade which I’d never visited before. I walked into the Anfiteatro piazza (inside a parabolic shape 2nd centre roman theatre) but walked right out again as it was just full of restaurants and gift shops (no photo of that!)
I eventually sat down in a little trattoria for a meal I didn’t need but when I saw tagliatelle with an asparagus and pancetta “carbonara?” I couldn’t resist! Was very good and the ambience with mostly Italian customers was super.
As I left the restaurant last night I had reserved again for tonight as it is one of the best and very close to my hotel, and I thought I’d try the meat…fortunately I had taken this precaution as several passersby were refused a table…
I was greeted like a local (as I was a regular customer!) and I had a beef tagliata to see how it compared with my own recipe and it was delicious with Porcini mushrooms on a bed wilted rocket, with a mixed salad.
Then back to the hotel to make a few reservations for the coming week (hope to be in Siena on Friday) and to prepare for tomorrow’s departure. I had a discussion with the concierge who didn’t know about the cycling bridge…