16th May 2015.
In Pontremoli (241m altitude)
Short version:
Having a day off in Pontremoli to cope with yesterday’s experience!
Super dinner.
Longer version:
No stiff thighs which I thought I’d have! The hotel had a reasonable breakfast as in addition to the usual it had one sort of muesli which was great for me and a sort of whole wheat bread, as well as yoghurt and fruit! I had come late to breakfast and was the last person in the dining room when the owner came in and turned off the lights before seeing me so he apologised and turned them on again. I said I’d forgive him if he’d make me a cappuccino, of course assuming he knew how? No Italian is going to admit to not knowing how and in fact it was excellent. Perhaps I didn’t need to have it there as this city is a cafe-society…more of that later.
When I went out to the tourist office (opening from10h00-12h00 and 15h00 – 17h00) I asked the woman why it was only open restricted hours and I learned the sad story of there being no money for this as she was a volunteer. “Pensions have to be paid to older people, other costs eat up the public finances and of course problems with the quality of the politicians, not to mention the influence of the Masonic Lodge with its secret operation…” ( remember the famous P2 lodge & Lucio Gelli who was at one time in prison in Geneva?). So what changes?
There were markets in all the public squares, not only fruit & vegetables, but a whole piazza of plants, gardening equipment, clothes, etc but what really surprised me were the number of beautiful cafes and bars – they were wall-to-wall around the piazzas in the ‘centro storico’ and finally I just had to go into one & have a decaf coffee with a delicious little amaretto. So the latest verse from my versifying friend is very appropriate here (although she thought it not very good & not recommended for publication)
Caffeine cravings
Create
Command
Compel
Capricious capers in
Cosy comfy cafes
There was an abundance of beautiful fresh produce on sale including wonderful zucchini flowers which I hope I’ll be getting in Geneva when I go home. But also the number of small specialty stores of all sorts was amazing, food, wine, artisans, manchester (household linen of all sorts), etc. One shop selling nothing but mushrooms, mostly dried, cheese shops (although there were also many stalls at the market with Parma specialties), I went into one fresh pasta shop where one had to take a number to be served and there were at least 25 different types of pasta on sale… I also learnt the Italian gesture for signalling that something is so delicious – take your index finger and push it into your cheek and turn it around!
I went up a little side street and came across one of the Pontremoli culinary institutions (one of the recommendations from the Tourist Office) & opened the door to ask if I could eat there in the evening (only open on Saturday evenings and for lunch some week-days). I spoke to an old lady who was in the kitchen preparing food & she said OK.
I then visited the main cathedral where women were arranging white flowers so I asked if a wedding was to take place but no, on Sunday it would be the first communion for 19 children from the parrish. The church is very baroque in decoration, not particularly attractive, but with a very venerated 13th century wooden statue of Virgin with Child, the People’s Virgin.
I walked to some other churches including that of Saint Francis (13th century) which had a magnificent 15th century marble sculpture of the Madonna & child by Agostino di Duccio (as well as an amusing notice saying “Have you remembered to switch off your mobile as God does not need to speak to you and you are here to listen to him”!).
I walked quite a way to Saint Peter’s church to see a famous sandstone sculpture depicting a labyrinth, symbolising the pilgrim’s journey, beset with difficulties, but it was closed and I consoled myself with the thought that I’d be walking past it in the morning, Sunday, so perhaps it would be open.
I then had an easy afternoon & the weather was very changeable and windy.One of the strangest thing I have seen here is a marble sculpture of people holding up a Euro sign! Perhaps in sympathy or to encourage the Greeks?
So, in the evening I went to Da Busse and had an excellent meal. On the way I checked my friend’s apartment almost next door as she was worried that the door to the street was not kept locked – I could report that all is well. It seems that the Signora, who is 85 years old and the cook, is the unmarried child (one of five) of her parents who had this restaurant in the 1930s. She makes everything and it is GOOD! I decided to take the tortellini in brodo (as I hadn’t eaten that before) but then decided that this was the place where I should really taste the home-made testaroli. As it was too late to change the order, she said she’d make me a half-serving of it to try. However…the tortellini in brodo were to die for! I’ve never had such wafer thin pasta around the delicious meat stuffing which were served in a clear broth. Then the testaroli with pesto sauce, followed by a selection of two meats from the main course (all prepared by the Signora) with a side dish of artichokes the likes of which I’ve never eaten before. Fried then cooked in broth?
For dessert the one waitress (by this time two other tables were occupied in another couple of little rooms beyond mine & were also being served) suggested a home-made (bien sur!) almond cake but version “sexy”. Fine, I replied. It was delicious and was served with fine slices of fiordilatte ice cream with sliced strawberries, a hit! I met the Signora
and congratulated her on all but especially the tortellini and she explained that her sister comes one night a week and they make them from 19h00 until midnight. When she is no longer here, it will close…
I went home a happy little camper and slept well.