8th May 2015 Fiorenzuola d’Arda to Fidenza
16.1 km on foot Fine weather all the way
Short version:
Worst breakfast at hotel which I think was almost a “truckie stop” as lorry drivers were just next to hotel & one was even washing his vehicle down at midnight! Set off through flat fields & saw first tomato plantations. All very pretty countryside, great cappuccino in a beautiful spot, on to Fidenza (home to the Via Francigena Association and a very historic little town) where I’ll spend the weekend & seemingly a great place to stop. Have a hotel right in the middle of town (but the train line very close…) so can stroll out for a gelato or aperitif! Go to end to view photos!
Longer version:
After an even worse breakfast than yesterday ( the choice between 6 different types of sweet croissant-type “things”) when all I wanted was a piece of ordinary bread but no luck…
I was fortunate in that my extra walking to the other side of town last night gave me a 1.5 km advantage on today’s walk towards Fidenza. A very pleasant day through flat country and principally between fields, mostly on small tarmac roads, but also some gravel roads and, best on all, some grass roads/tracks (& fortunately no streams to “ford”!). Fields of various cereals and then I finally saw the tomato plantations for which the area is apparently well known. Half-way to my destination I walked into the village of Castelnuovo Fogliani & went into a little place selling fruit and vegetables & managed to enrich my miserable ham pizza-bread sandwich for lunch (bought from the hotel bar this morning) with a tomato, cucumber, an apple and some strawberries (you may not think this important but when the closest thing to eat at any time is around pizza or bread…). Then in the village I sat outside a little chalet-type bar in the grassy piazza for a cappuccino & I finished off all the strawberries! The only other clients were a couple of groups of retired men in lively discussions (but not consuming much which didn’t worry the owner as she was more worried that I was walking alone) – the owner told me they are there most days (as they are retired – the wives are at home & sometimes come on Sundays!) – so nice to see as one realises that such people will not die alone while their neighbours are oblivious to their plight. This whole Po plain must be a hay-fever sufferer’s nightmare as for the last few days the air has been full of “debris” from spring flowerings floating in the breeze.
Then onwards through fields in more interesting green slightly undulating country, past some fine villas, beautiful flower displays of irises, roses, many flowering trees and shrubs (and even a small lemon tree in a pot with at least 100 fruit on it – tell me the secret!) before entering Fidenza (entering over a river which was flowing fast despite the guidebook saying it would be dry…) which is a most pleasant and very interesting small town of great history and is also the headquarters of the Association of the Via Francigena! I walked over the ruins of a Roman bridge (not longer used as the bed of the river has shifted since those times) and through an arch to see the beautiful cathedral in its piazza. Tourist office was closed but there were details of a some accommodation on the door so as I wanted to stay the weekend I chose to stay in a hotel (2 were listed) so I asked a local which was the closest and went there. The woman looked & ummed and erred a little before saying she could give me a room & when I asked for it to be away from the street she replied that it was the last room so I accepted with alacrity! Much to see over the weekend I’ll spend here (every pilgrim needs a day off although I’m not sure Sigeric would have been of the same opinion…)
As I was sitting having a drink in the main square late in the afternoon the sky turned grey and then thunder rolled around and it started to rain so perhaps this will be a regular event…will have to make sure I’m safely housed for the night before then.
Must admit that I was a little worried about a blister which looked as if it might be infected but a trip to the pharmacy and a check by a pharmacist seems to have allayed my fears so am hoping the weekend off will arrange the situation.
Have washed almost half my wardrobe (am wearing the other half). I think there must be some sort of festival here this weekend as so many people about this evening and some structures set up in the main piazza.
A quite uninteresting meal in the hotel restaurant (scaloppine al limone which was literally two thinish slices of pork in a flour-thickened clear lemon juice sauce) but tomorrow have booked to go to the one of the best restaurants in town with typical food… Am exhausted and falling into bed!
Today’s highlights
– the wonderful old-fashioned pharmacist who took me in hand and allayed my fears re my bad blister with advice & a suitable cream
– a delicious gelato which was a work of art with three flavours served like a flower!
– flowers everywhere with the stupendous small lemon tree
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