6th May 2015 Orio Litta to Piacenza – 20km on foot, 4km by ferry (crossing the Po River)
Fine weather getting to quite hot.
Short version:
Set off early with Spanish pilgrim Gonzalo to meet the ferry to cross the Po (4 km ride down-stream in fast boat) which was great as was the whole “Danilo (boatman) experience”. A long walk especially going through the outskirts of town on a main road, often without footpaths Arriving in Piacenza. Visit the city cathedral, other churches & old centre. Finally first delicious dinner!
Longer version:
After a good night’s sleep in the beautiful hostel Gonzalo and I had an early breakfast & left to walk the 3km to the landing stage by 9h00. Danilo turned up for us about 9h15 and we had a brilliant fast ride to his home 4km further down the river.
When we arrived we went into his garden and he proudly showed us “Sigeric’s foot imprint” on a brick built into a seat around a tree. He then made us coffee & he stamped our pilgrim passports and had us sign his wonderful Visitors’ Book. He then showed us a statistic of the more than 3500 pilgrims he had transported from the first Dutch pilgrim in 1998. So far there have been 54 Australians who have passed through there – last year there were 378 pilgrims who crossed but he thinks there will be over 500 this year.
When Danilo suggested to Gonzalo that he should telephone to the church where he had to collect the key to a hostel (where he intended to stay the night which was a couple of km further on from central Piacenza), Gonzalo replied that pilgrims didn’t telephone and just accepted what happened. He was a most interesting and authentic young person with a warm heart. Then he left in front of me as I walk more slowly than he does and he had further to travel, towards the hostel after Piacenza.
I started off on what should have been a 17km walk but which turned out to be longer – and I am starting to have serious doubts about the distances marked in my guide book. Nearly all the way on tarmac roads, often with no footpath but some bike paths, in flat countryside with more unattractive industry as I arrived on the outskirts of Piacenza. There was a straight 5km stretch through unattractive small businesses and other shops etc (often failed businesses leaving empty space which is for rent or sale) until I reached the old centre of town. I went to the tourist office to find a place to sleep and then had to walk another 1.5 km to get there (but it is thankfully very close to where I start from tomorrow morning!).
After a shower I took a taxi to a big sports store on the outskirts of town as I had a problem with my walking sticks (which was quickly fixed) and then went out to visit the old city centre with several interesting churches and squares. I listened to a couple of sung masses and sat in a cloister with a beautiful garden. This evening I have eaten in an excellent traditional restaurant just up the road from the hotel and tasted some delicious specialities – there was a little bottle of a mixture of what seemed like lard with ham & parsley to spread on dried pieces of bread (almost like rusks) which was very tasty, a plate of very crunchy mixed vegetables cooked in vinegar and wine which were delicious, followed by a plate of tiny home-made gnocchi with fagioli (bean seeds) in a wonderful sauce and a super mixed salad (I needed the greens after eating bread all day). Will be happy to go to bed, after of course caring from my feet!
Today’s highlights:
– The “Danilo” experience as he proudly showed us his beautiful visitors’ book and spoke of the experiences he has had because of this (side) activity. He explained that this crossing existed from Roman times. The Po is a mighty but polluted river.
“Service with a smile!” Just after crossing a very long bridge, with a very narrow footpath and heavy traffic, I walked into a service station and sat down at some chairs on its perimeter (as the guide book warned that there would be no place to sit & often with no footpaths for the next 5km through the outskirts of Piacenza). A young man working there gave me a Thumbs-up sign and then brought me a peach drink! Then I realized I was seeing something I’d not seen for a long time – 5 men serving petrol to customers as well as cleaning the cars, if desired, and the customers just kept coming in so it must be appreciated…I didn’t think to look how much more expensive the petrol was but business was brisk!
– Lovely meal My first delicious dinner of typical Piacentina dishes.